correct again
I know Range rovers can actually off-road, but it a bit of a waste putting it through that.Camm wrote:
that's not chromed up, that's stock.PrivateVendetta wrote:
chromed-up sport-tyres, off roading. yeah.
So, what is your off-road of choice? That you can still take to a posh dinner. Land Cruiser aside.RTHKI wrote:
easy to resist
But the rest of us were.
not tsToilet Sex wrote:
i dunno, not a fan. the latest ones are the best looking inside & out IMO, that's all i really care about. hard to resist.13rin wrote:
Yea they are...Toilet Sex wrote:
Range Rover Sports are still awesome though
I would love to have a Land Rover D90 late 1990's... Fuckers are still 40K+
Land Rover, like so many other cars the minute you drive a brand new one off the forecourt you loose about £15k.
They are nice though, I can only dream
They are nice though, I can only dream
Might have to get a white one. Really the only color they carry here. Black on black sucks. I'm not getting red or green.
Saw an F430 today.
noice 
It would have fallen to bits while being towed out.Ilocano wrote:
Now, if that were an H1 or H2.
Fuck Israel
My new alternator works!!!!!!!!!!! I finally know how to splice wires now, no fires and it even worked on the first try, lol
Didn't fix the idling problem but the new one is a lot more powerful either from having a handful more amps or just generally working better. My windows are faster than they ever were and now barely move the gauge needle and the speakers sounded like they were louder even with just the white noise from tape mode.
It's a shame I gotta redo it though since I played it too safe lengthwise, now there's a shitload of slack to the point where it has to come up to just underneath my throttle body and then loop back down to the alternator. I wouldn't care too much but the solder inside the solder-ball-heatshrink crimps I used was hard to work with when all I have is one of those novelty torch-lighters with the blue-hot flame
Didn't fix the idling problem but the new one is a lot more powerful either from having a handful more amps or just generally working better. My windows are faster than they ever were and now barely move the gauge needle and the speakers sounded like they were louder even with just the white noise from tape mode.
It's a shame I gotta redo it though since I played it too safe lengthwise, now there's a shitload of slack to the point where it has to come up to just underneath my throttle body and then loop back down to the alternator. I wouldn't care too much but the solder inside the solder-ball-heatshrink crimps I used was hard to work with when all I have is one of those novelty torch-lighters with the blue-hot flame
no fires
significant upgrade, congrats
significant upgrade, congrats
Thanks, lol, I hope it works just as good when I re-do it for proper wire length
LOL_j5689_ wrote:
My new alternator works!!!!!!!!!!! I finally know how to splice wires now, no fires and it even worked on the first try, lol
Didn't fix the idling problem but the new one is a lot more powerful either from having a handful more amps or just generally working better. My windows are faster than they ever were and now barely move the gauge needle and the speakers sounded like they were louder even with just the white noise from tape mode.
It's a shame I gotta redo it though since I played it too safe lengthwise, now there's a shitload of slack to the point where it has to come up to just underneath my throttle body and then loop back down to the alternator. I wouldn't care too much but the solder inside the solder-ball-heatshrink crimps I used was hard to work with when all I have is one of those novelty torch-lighters with the blue-hot flame
Fuck Israel
new alternator wouldn't affect speaker volume unless you're getting more or less interference. sounds like your battery is weak or you've got a dead cell -which can kill an alternator. and soldering isn't necessary with most automotive wiring. butt splices and heat shrink tubing are a better route.
your idle problem sounds like a vacuum or breather hose issue. MAF metered engines are very sensitive to leaks before and after the throttle body. and you may want to double check your injector and coil connections for proper routing.
your idle problem sounds like a vacuum or breather hose issue. MAF metered engines are very sensitive to leaks before and after the throttle body. and you may want to double check your injector and coil connections for proper routing.
My battery was weak and then I got a warranty replacement two months ago and things got a little better but there was still a lot of fluctuation, now that I've replaced the alternator, everything seems to be good.Reciprocity wrote:
new alternator wouldn't affect speaker volume unless you're getting more or less interference. sounds like your battery is weak or you've got a dead cell -which can kill an alternator. and soldering isn't necessary with most automotive wiring. butt splices and heat shrink tubing are a better route.
your idle problem sounds like a vacuum or breather hose issue. MAF metered engines are very sensitive to leaks before and after the throttle body. and you may want to double check your injector and coil connections for proper routing.
Yeah, I was wondering about the solder vs crimp thing for cars, but other people tell me to solder so I bought the Sure-Connect crimps on this page for back when I thought I had a bad fuel pump, turns out it was just the fuel filter so I finally got to try these out with the alternator wires. They have solder in the middle so you crimp it and then take the torch/heat gun to it and then it melts the heatshrink and the solder into the middle. In the future, it would be nice to be able to just get the cheaper and easier to use regular splices like you said though. Also realized I can just cut from both sides to re-size the slack I have, just gotta measure carefully
And yes, I suspect the IAC is bad, but it passed the unplug stall-out test, I'm still probably going to get another one or more of them from the junkyard though if I go this weekend and then swap them out and see if one works. lol, the throttle body itself is actually missing the 4th bolt to the plenum, it fell into the suspension beyond reach so I've been running without, gotta get one of those too, could be it(still no regrets with the alternator, I've been wanting to do this for a while and the bad bearing on my 4G was a good enough excuse to finally get a 6G alternator and learn to splice). And I'll double check the coil & ignition wire routing tomorrow
did you have any idle problem before taking off your intake manifold? If not it's highly unlikely that your IAC just happened to crap out at the same time. it's not impossible, just unlikely. when you hear hoofbeats...._j5689_ wrote:
And yes, I suspect the IAC is bad, but it passed the unplug stall-out test
are you having any driveability problems? Shuddering, hesitation, dead miss?
Last edited by Reciprocity (2012-03-24 10:29:04)
No I didn't have any idling problems before but I figure it's possible that some dirt got in there anyway since I left the plenum hooked up but in another part of the engine upside down where it fit while I was working on the intake. There was a hose that I couldn't remove and it looked like it was hard to replace, so that's why I did that, but I'm not sure if that's enough to cause it to get dirty.Reciprocity wrote:
did you have any idle problem before taking off your intake manifold? If not it's highly unlikely that your IAC just happened to crap out at the same time. it's not impossible, just unlikely. when you hear horse hoofbeats...._j5689_ wrote:
And yes, I suspect the IAC is bad, but it passed the unplug stall-out test
are you having any driveability problems? Shuddering, hesitation, dead miss?
Nothing particularly bad about the driveability, it does stutter on shifts but it's been doing that for a while because I need to replace the transmission fluid. Seems maybe a little bit weaker than it was before but I'll need to drive it a little bit more to be sure. WOT seems consistent and doesn't stutter till I need to shift. I suspect my gas mileage took a hit but I've been starting the engine up very frequently to keep checking it though and it didn't seem out of the ordinary when I went to run some errands and get the car checked out at my Uncle's house(his mechanic said vacuum leak or IAC too). The low idling seems to affect the power steering when I'm at stops signs but once I'm moving it seems O.K., the pulley on that was nice and smooth so I don't think it's that
Is it possible I have just an air leak and not a coolant leak on the intake manifold and I just need to tighten the middle bolts?
a small amount of dirt isn't going to damage or impede your idle air control valve, it's simply sucked through the engine. You need to look very closely at ALL the hoses in the engine compartment. soft lines dry out and split lengthwise at connections or are oil contaminated, collapsing and disintegrating. hard lines become brittle and snap very easily. check for cracks in your intake hose between the air filter housing and throttle body. Your engine is extremely sensitive to unmetered air. any leak in the intake system past the MAF sensor will cause noticeable problems.
Did you properly clean and dry the intake mating surfaces? hopefully you didn't put anything on the presumably new intake gaskets; no RTV or adhesives? did you torque the manifold bolts evenly and to spec? did you screw with the throttle body gasket? are all the downstream injector o-rings in place?
Did you properly clean and dry the intake mating surfaces? hopefully you didn't put anything on the presumably new intake gaskets; no RTV or adhesives? did you torque the manifold bolts evenly and to spec? did you screw with the throttle body gasket? are all the downstream injector o-rings in place?
a coolant leak wouldn't cause the problem you're having unless your head gaskets are fried. and unless you screwed up the initial installation the torque of your manifold bolts shouldn't be an issue. that manifold is very delicate so don't just go tightening stuff.Is it possible I have just an air leak and not a coolant leak on the intake manifold and I just need to tighten the middle bolts?
I cleaned them pretty good with degreaser, there was just a little bit of black left where the old ones where but it looked like it was just a stain and not raised up and I used Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gaskets that cost $60 but shitty pre-work is shitty prep-work if that's what caused it. I didn't put anything on them eitherReciprocity wrote:
a small amount of dirt isn't going to damage or impede your idle air control valve, it's simply sucked through the engine. You need to look very closely at ALL the hoses in the engine compartment. soft lines dry out and split lengthwise at connections or are oil contaminated, collapsing and disintegrating. hard lines become brittle and snap very easily. check for cracks in your intake hose between the air filter housing and throttle body. Your engine is extremely sensitive to unmetered air. any leak in the intake system past the MAF sensor will cause noticeable problems.
Did you properly clean and dry the intake mating surfaces? hopefully you didn't put anything on the presumably new intake gaskets; no RTV or adhesives? did you torque the manifold bolts evenly and to spec? did you screw with the throttle body gasket? are all the downstream injector o-rings in place?a coolant leak wouldn't cause the problem you're having unless your head gaskets are fried. and unless you screwed up the initial installation the torque of your manifold bolts shouldn't be an issue. that manifold is very delicate so don't just go tightening stuff.Is it possible I have just an air leak and not a coolant leak on the intake manifold and I just need to tighten the middle bolts?
I torqued them according to the diagram starting from the middle and working outward but I didn't have a torque wrench though and apparently neither does a single person I know, even the ones that fucking work on cars, go figure. But somebody who does car work told me that 19-22 ft/lbs of torque is just a quarter turn past hand-tight so I did the best I could with that but I honestly don't know
I also kept the throttle body to the side because I couldn't get the linkage off and I kept the gasket secured to it with one corner bolt which happened to be the one that fell into the cracks and then I just put the gasket back on and secured it with the other three bolts
I have a feeling that something I did while installing the intake did it and I just don't feel like dealing with this anymore, now the battery won't do anything and the only difference between today and yesterday is that it's raining today, it won't power anything even if I hook a jump-starter box up to it.
so now you're back to some kind of charging system problem?
Pretty much, except I can't even guess what caused it since nothing can be powered on in any way, it could be the alternator wiring job I did or the new alternator itself or the battery just decided to fuck up or something's not connected properly anymore. I tried jiggling the positive battery terminal over and over didn't even hear a reconnection spark sound or see the indicative underhood light turn on, and the jumper kit doesn't work on it either so I think something might've just straight up fried the battery. Either that or a ground isn't working right, as somebody mentioned my engine apparently might not be grounded properly since the lower passenger-side alternator bolt was shocking me and sparking from the bolt-head when I turned it while the alternator was sitting directly on it, I had to disconnect the positive to get it to stop so I could tighten it all the way. The ground was never an issue with the old alternator though.
I'm gonna see if my dad can take me to Advance Auto tomorrow to get the alternator and battery tested, I'd rather the alternator wasn't fucked obviously but I feel like that might be the perpetrator and at least my dad said he'll help me pay for whatever I need within reason to get it all going again
I'm gonna see if my dad can take me to Advance Auto tomorrow to get the alternator and battery tested, I'd rather the alternator wasn't fucked obviously but I feel like that might be the perpetrator and at least my dad said he'll help me pay for whatever I need within reason to get it all going again
Last edited by _j5689_ (2012-03-25 00:04:16)
Well, got them both tested today, and the battery needs to be replaced but the alternator is PERFECT, it gets 14.4 volts and then 13.8 or 13.6 with load according to their test machine. Amazing how it can last 14 years(came off a 98 Town Car) and still run that well, I just gotta make sure I sand down the contact points on the engine and on the back of it so it grounds properly and mate it to a new battery that can sync with it. The lady behind the counter that tested the battery said that's typically why you're supposed to replace alternators and batteries at the same time so they can get used to each other
no, that's bullshit. a shit battery is a shit battery._j5689_ wrote:
The lady behind the counter that tested the battery said that's typically why you're supposed to replace alternators and batteries at the same time so they can get used to each other
yup, if it ain't broke don't fix it.Reciprocity wrote:
no, that's bullshit. a shit battery is a shit battery._j5689_ wrote:
The lady behind the counter that tested the battery said that's typically why you're supposed to replace alternators and batteries at the same time so they can get used to each other