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krazed wrote:

question, so now that i'm set up for reloading... i want to work up a load for hunting

what increments should i increase the weight of the powder by? i've been told to do .3 increments up to just below the max. load

any suggestions?

just pack a rifle cartridge full of pistol powder right up to the brim and then shove the bullet in.  it'll get you a lot of bang for your buck.





don't actually do this,  it will definitely kill you.

Last edited by Reciprocity (2011-12-06 18:28:03)

krazed wrote:

question, so now that i'm set up for reloading... i want to work up a load for hunting

what increments should i increase the weight of the powder by? i've been told to do .3 increments up to just below the max. load

any suggestions?

Its going to depend on the cartridge and some powders do not appreciate being under-loaded - follow the instructions for each powder.
A chronograph is invaluable.

ah right sorry, it's a .223 using IMR-3031, starting out at 21.5 and going no higher than 23.5 (as per the instructions from the lyman manual47th edition) have a buddy that is bringing his chronograph out, i don't have one yet

rdx-fx wrote:

Trying to get a load that'll stay above 1100fps out to 1760 yards (supersonic out to a mile), and consistently hit a 12" target. Preferably a 6" target.

RAIMIUS wrote:

0.326 moa at a mile?!

Was hitting a 6" target at 1200 yards (1204, says the Leica 1600 rangefinder). mostly in a 3" cluster.
Same load will also hit 1.25" groups at 600yd.
That's a 300 WSM, launching 210 Berger VLD bullets, RL-17 powder, Federal 210M primers.
Picky Princess load, though.  Can be inconsistent for a variety of reasons, mostly to do with the VLD bullets and RL-17 chemistry.
When it's on, it's amazing - when it goes to shit, it really opens up groups.

Did some testing today with H4831sc powder, Federal 210M primers, and the newish Berger 230 Hybrid OTM bullets.
Very consistent results.
Doing a pressure workup from 58gr to 65gr of powder, every round was through a ragged 1/2" hole at 100 yards.
15 rounds, drastic change in powder charge - still sending them through a 1/2" hole.

I also "cheat" though. 
I've a front bipod, and a rear monopod.
So, effectively, I'm shooting from a tripod mount even when I'm prone in the dirt.

And a 32 power scope (Nightforce NXS 8-32x56)

And a JP "Bennie Cooley" muzzle brake that reduces the recoil so much that my left hand on the rear monopod is enough to keep the rifle from coming back.  No heart twitch, no breathing cycle, no coffee jitters.  Just get on target, get the range, do the math (iPhone app does most of it), and pull the trigger properly.

krazed wrote:

question, so now that i'm set up for reloading... i want to work up a load for hunting

what increments should i increase the weight of the powder by? i've been told to do .3 increments up to just below the max. load

any suggestions?

Really depends on the case capacity, and your familiarity with reloading for it.
For just starting, on something between a .308 and 300 WSM, 0.3gr increments is sane.
NEVER be in a hurry when you're measuring powder charges.
Personally, I use a folded scrap of business card to scoop out individual granules of powder to make sure the charge is spot-on.

Make sure your scale is level.

Make sure you visually inspect each case for a proper powder charge before putting a bullet in it.

Make sure your primers are flush (to slightly recessed).  Visually, and/or with the base of your thumb.

When you're firing those test loads;
Check each fired case for pressure signs - heavy bolt lift (you've gone WAY too far if you see this), flattened primers, shiny ring 1/4" to 1/2" from the base of the case, round dot on the base (extractor mark), etc etc.

Before loading cases;
Gently cycle each empty, unprimed case through your rifle, to make sure the round will properly chamber.

Best of all - have someone that really knows what they're doing load the first batch of rounds for you, explaining every step of the way.

krazed wrote:

ah right sorry, it's a .223 using IMR-3031, starting out at 21.5 and going no higher than 23.5 (as per the instructions from the lyman manual47th edition) have a buddy that is bringing his chronograph out, i don't have one yet

Check out the Hodgdon's reloading manual.  Looks like a black & white cover magazine.  Like $7.50.  Much cheaper than the other reloading manuals ($50 ea).

I'm personally not a fan of Lymans (nor Lee) for equipment or data.  Nosler, Hodgdons, Lapua, and Hornady manuals on my shelf.  Sierra data is ... questionable, in my opinion.

My Hornady 7th edition has IMR-3031 of 20.3 to 22.8 gr of powder, behind a 60gr bullet, with a COAL (case over all length) of 2.2" to 2.25", in a bolt action rifle.  Different powder ranges for 55gr, 50gr, and such.

or just wing it

FatherTed wrote:

keep adding powder until you lose a hand, then scale back a bit imho

I prefer the "remove bolt from maxillary sinus" gauge.

FatherTed wrote:

keep adding powder until you lose a hand, then scale back a bit imho

This

Reciprocity wrote:

or just wing it

Also this

You add powder until your chamber ruptures/bolt becomes its own projectile. Then you cut your losses and move up a caliber. Rinse and repeat!

Real life is OVERRATED, so here I am

That's right lowly serfs. I'm back. Well until Xmas at least. I broke a rib and I have nothing to do haha

M.O.A.B wrote:

The "Grey Room"

My Mecca.

Legion of Doom R&R room.