What Watt would i want?

2008-07-24 01:45:55

#1

Mavik: Member; +22|6045|Germany

New system will be:

Core 2 Duo E8400 3.00GHZ
P5K/EPU S775 P35 ATX DDR2
Creative SoundBlaster AudigySE
2 x DDR2 2048MB (2X1024) PC1066
Samsung 500GB SATAII
Sparkle GF8800GT 512MB PCI-EX

plus an IDE or SATA DVD/CD-RW drive

I currently have a 420W from my old P4 system, new parts are not yet delivered so I have some days left for last additions.
Should I get a bigger power supply (550W ?) or can my old one handle the new system?

http://www.be-quiet.net/calculator.php?websiteLang=de
Here it says it would be OK, but opinions vary, thought I ask some more people, so here I am.

2008-07-24 02:06:50

#2

G-NOT_(:0): Banned; +19|6268

600-700W should be suitable for your needs.

especially this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6817171023

90$ after 30$ mail-in rebate

2008-07-24 02:08:18

#3

AussieReaper: ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°); +5,761|6421|what

8800gt has a reccommended PSU wattage of at least 450w. If you want to overclock or it comes factory overclocked 500w. I'd suggest you get a 550w - 600w PSU and make damn sure it's from a good company.

A cheap PSU can blow your system away and you'll need to repurchase nearly everything.

2008-07-24 02:09:14

#4

Nessie09: I "fix" things; +107|6938|The Netherlands

It depends on how old the powersupply is. If it's a couple of years old, it will degrade and give fewer watts that when it was brand new.

2008-07-24 02:11:52

#5

Jenspm: penis; +1,716|7001|St. Andrews / Oslo

420W is enough, but it depends if your PSU is good enough (12V rails etc).

If it's from a very old system, I'd reccomend upgrading - preferably to an Enermax Modu82+ or a Corsair HX620.

First, however, try to find the model number so someone can look up the stats.

https://static.bf2s.com/files/user/26774/flickricon.png

2008-07-24 02:12:11

#6

Mavik: Member; +22|6045|Germany

TheAussieReaper wrote:
make damn sure it's from a good company.

Recommendations?

2008-07-24 02:15:55

#7

AussieReaper: ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°); +5,761|6421|what

Antec would be my choice, others I'm sure would have other suggestions.

2008-07-24 02:22:04

#8

m3thod: All kiiiiiiiiinds of gainz; +2,197|6940|UK

Mavik wrote:
TheAussieReaper wrote:
make damn sure it's from a good company.
Recommendations?

Seasonic

Blackbelts are just whitebelts who have never quit.

2008-07-24 02:35:34

#9

max: Vela Incident; +1,652|6836|NYC / Hamburg

m3thod wrote:
Mavik wrote:
TheAussieReaper wrote:
make damn sure it's from a good company.
Recommendations?
Seasonic

and enermax, OCZ, Corsair, PC Power and cooling, Thermaltake, ...

_{once upon a midnight dreary, while i pron surfed, weak and weary, over many a strange and spurious site of ' hot xxx galore'. While i clicked my fav'rite bookmark, suddenly there came a warning, and my heart was filled with mourning, mourning for my dear amour, " 'Tis not possible!", i muttered, " give me back my free hardcore!"..... quoth the server, 404.}

2008-07-24 03:22:27

#10

Mavik: Member; +22|6045|Germany

Hm, no one saying bequiet?

2008-07-24 05:30:02

#11

Freezer7Pro: I don't come here a lot anymore.; +1,447|6466|Winland

You guys are going way over. 600-700w? That's the definition of overkill. A HX520 or similar would power that system more than well. I have a HX520 in my system, which uses at least 1/3 more power than his soon-to-be. Rock solid, and it doesn't even get warm.

The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP

2008-07-24 05:50:43

#12

Jenspm: penis; +1,716|7001|St. Andrews / Oslo

Freezer7Pro wrote:
You guys are going way over. 600-700w? That's the definition of overkill. A HX520 or similar would power that system more than well. I have a HX520 in my system, which uses at least 1/3 more power than his soon-to-be. Rock solid, and it doesn't even get warm.

Meh, I always choose to go a little over what's needed to reduce noise.

but, I guess 620W is a lot over what's needed

2008-07-24 06:33:49

#13

Scorpion0x17: can detect anyone's visible post count...; +691|7034|Cambridge (UK)

Mavik wrote:
New system will be:

Core 2 Duo E8400 3.00GHZ
P5K/EPU S775 P35 ATX DDR2
Creative SoundBlaster AudigySE
2 x DDR2 2048MB (2X1024) PC1066
Samsung 500GB SATAII
Sparkle GF8800GT 512MB PCI-EX

plus an IDE or SATA DVD/CD-RW drive

I currently have a 420W from my old P4 system, new parts are not yet delivered so I have some days left for last additions.
Should I get a bigger power supply (550W ?) or can my old one handle the new system?

http://www.be-quiet.net/calculator.php?websiteLang=de
Here it says it would be OK, but opinions vary, thought I ask some more people, so here I am.

You should always add a chunk to any automated wattage calculator.

So, if it says 400W will do, go for 450W or 500W minimum.

Also keep in mind, that old PSUs tend to be weak PSUs (just due to age) - so a new PSU (whatever the wattage) is a good idea from that point of view anyway.

From my understanding, around 500W should be just fine.

2008-07-24 06:35:10

#14

kylef: Gone; +1,352|6762|N. Ireland

Understanding Power Supplies

Before I go into more detail, I have to stress that asking "how many watts do i need?" is the wrong question.

I'd recommend what Freezer said, also. I have a Corsair HX520W and it is great - and the noise level on it is alright too. I've had mine for 13 months and while I have had some light fluctuation issues, they pass after a while ... I haven't had any for months now - even despite this, I'd recommend this power supply to anyone.

2008-07-24 07:19:35

#15

Scorpion0x17: can detect anyone's visible post count...; +691|7034|Cambridge (UK)

kylef wrote:
Before I go into more detail, I have to stress that asking "how many watts do i need?" is the wrong question.

It's not really the 'wrong question', it's just not 'all of the question'...

2008-07-24 08:09:45

#16

Freezer7Pro: I don't come here a lot anymore.; +1,447|6466|Winland

Scorpion0x17 wrote:
kylef wrote:
Before I go into more detail, I have to stress that asking "how many watts do i need?" is the wrong question.
It's not really the 'wrong question', it's just not 'all of the question'...

It's the wrong question, as 95% of commercial power supplies are rated completely wrong. If all manufacturers would rate according to Ohm's law, it'd be the right question.

The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP

2008-07-24 20:00:16

#17

Scorpion0x17: can detect anyone's visible post count...; +691|7034|Cambridge (UK)

Freezer7Pro wrote:
Scorpion0x17 wrote:
kylef wrote:

It's not really the 'wrong question', it's just not 'all of the question'...
It's the wrong question, as 95% of commercial power supplies are rated completely wrong. If all manufacturers would rate according to Ohm's law, it'd be the right question.

Well, for a start Ohm's Law itself (V=IR) doesn't deal directly with Watts.

For watts you need:

W=J/s

J=VIs

so, W=VI

Where W=wattage, J=energy, s=time, V=voltage and I=current (oh, and R=resistance (in ohms law)).

2008-07-24 20:08:09

#18

Cheez: Herman is a warmaphrodite; +1,027|6707|King Of The Islands

I think Hairong calculate theirs by maximum consumption, not typical output like the good brands.

Also 80Plus.

My state was founded by Batman. Your opinion is invalid.

2008-07-24 22:05:55

#19

SpIk3y: Minister of Silly Walks; +67|6408|New Jersey

It doesn't matter whether or not that was the right question to ask, it was clever alliteration and got the point across that he was asking about PSUs.

2008-07-25 01:57:24

#20

Freezer7Pro: I don't come here a lot anymore.; +1,447|6466|Winland

Scorpion0x17 wrote:
Freezer7Pro wrote:
Scorpion0x17 wrote:
It's not really the 'wrong question', it's just not 'all of the question'...
It's the wrong question, as 95% of commercial power supplies are rated completely wrong. If all manufacturers would rate according to Ohm's law, it'd be the right question.
Well, for a start Ohm's Law itself (V=IR) doesn't deal directly with Watts.

For watts you need:

W=J/s

J=VIs

so, W=VI

Where W=wattage, J=energy, s=time, V=voltage and I=current (oh, and R=resistance (in ohms law)).

Yes, but a majority of PSU manufacturers just don't give a fuck, and put whatever number they want. As usual, you've got all the theory, but the real world sadly doesn't work that way.

Last edited by Freezer7Pro (2008-07-25 02:04:47)

The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP

2008-07-25 05:34:57

#21

Scorpion0x17: can detect anyone's visible post count...; +691|7034|Cambridge (UK)

Freezer7Pro wrote:
Scorpion0x17 wrote:
Freezer7Pro wrote:

It's the wrong question, as 95% of commercial power supplies are rated completely wrong. If all manufacturers would rate according to Ohm's law, it'd be the right question.
Well, for a start Ohm's Law itself (V=IR) doesn't deal directly with Watts.

For watts you need:

W=J/s

J=VIs

so, W=VI

Where W=wattage, J=energy, s=time, V=voltage and I=current (oh, and R=resistance (in ohms law)).
Yes, but a majority of PSU manufacturers just don't give a fuck, and put whatever number they want. As usual, you've got all the theory, but the real world sadly doesn't work that way.

Ah, in that case, I see what you mean - you just referenced the wrong law - but other wise, yeah, sadly you are correct - a good way to judge the quality of a PSU is to do the math and see how close the 'quoted rating' of the PSU is to it's 'calculated rating'.

2008-07-25 05:44:55

#22

Freezer7Pro: I don't come here a lot anymore.; +1,447|6466|Winland

Scorpion0x17 wrote:
Freezer7Pro wrote:
Scorpion0x17 wrote:

Well, for a start Ohm's Law itself (V=IR) doesn't deal directly with Watts.

For watts you need:

W=J/s

J=VIs

so, W=VI

Where W=wattage, J=energy, s=time, V=voltage and I=current (oh, and R=resistance (in ohms law)).
Yes, but a majority of PSU manufacturers just don't give a fuck, and put whatever number they want. As usual, you've got all the theory, but the real world sadly doesn't work that way.
Ah, in that case, I see what you mean - you just referenced the wrong law - but other wise, yeah, sadly you are correct - a good way to judge the quality of a PSU is to do the math and see how close the 'quoted rating' of the PSU is to it's 'calculated rating'.

Oh, sorry. I suck at all these physics laws Calculating the wattage, like you said, is a really good tip.

The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP

BF2S Forums What Watt would i want?

TheAussieReaper wrote:

Mavik wrote:

TheAussieReaper wrote:

m3thod wrote:

Mavik wrote:

TheAussieReaper wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Mavik wrote:

kylef wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

kylef wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

kylef wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Scorpion0x17 wrote:

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