ghettoperson
Member
+1,943|6915

Much as I like my Creative T20's, I feel I need something a little more powerful and better sounding. So rather than just get some Z-5500's, I was looking at some hifi stuff. My choices are based entirely on WhatHifi reviews, so I don't know how this works out in reality. I'd like some floor standing speakers, other than that don't really have any requirements, other than that it must sound good. I don't need a CD player, as I've ripped them all on to my computer and left them at home.

Anyway:

Speakers: Mission M33i. I've found those for 140 quid rather than the 230 they say in the article.

Amp: Cambridge Audio Azur 340A SE. Can be aquired for 170 pounds.

Do I need a pre amp? I'm assuming this stuff will hook up easily enough to my sound card? I don't really have a budget, as it will probably end up being bought after Christmas, but I'd rather spend less than more. Use the above examples for reference. Thanks.
Freezer7Pro
I don't come here a lot anymore.
+1,447|6463|Winland

The above ones needs an extra receiver, the lower ones don't. Out of those two, I'd get the lower ones, they seem fairly good for the price. To hook up, you will probably need a 3.5mm stereo plug to RCA adapter.

EDIT: On closer inspection, the lower one is just an amp. You'll need both.

Last edited by Freezer7Pro (2008-11-17 07:17:09)

The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
Morpheus
This shit still going?
+508|6265|The Mitten
45 watts into a 100 watt speaker?

It probably won't work as well as you'd want. Try to find stuff that's closer.

Pre-amps aren't necessary, unless you are running mic-level stuff. Line-level stuff should be fine with out it.
EE (hats
Jean_Peste_tu?
Yes I Do
+44|6886|Auteuil, Laval
I know I'm late a bit to post in here but we're still not after Christmas.

Morpheus, I'm using a 50w RMS into 150w RMS speakers and I can tell you I can wake the 4th floor above me if I want.
No problema! (read lower for sensitivity)

Peak watts or nominal, they don't even say. RMS ftw!
Good brands though, quality will be there.  Speakers will be a bit analytic (not sensitive enough for my taste; only 90db for 1w at 1m)
You would need a higher wattage amp to get club like room filling sound. 
Don't get me wrong it will get loud but you may stay on your appetite. (Does the last part of the sentence make sense?)

Each time you want to add 3 db you need to double the power of the amp.
Let's see 2w = 93 db, 4w = 96 db, 8w = 99db, 16w = 102db, 32w = 105db, you'll get +/-106.5db max.

I made my own speakers, I'm at 102db 1w/1m.  (The speakers were bought actually but I made the enclosure)
With the same amp you would get +/-116.5db.
Go for Klipsh if you can / want, they are more dynamic usually.

Most important go out and listen to the stuff you want to buy.  Have amp and speakers switch so you can compare.
The taste for sound is different for everybody, like food.

An amp should be heavy or should be heavier for an increase of wattage. 
Power supply and current reserve need to be there. 
If the amp you choose has a system that has soft clipping of some sort like NAD amp have, it would be great. (It help protect the speakers)

At music you want the source to be prime quality (Turntables, CD reader, tape or other) then the pre-amp and the amp (if not integrated) and last the speakers.
A good source and a good amp will make lower quality speakers sounds okay but the contraire just won't work.

Good luck!
Freezer7Pro
I don't come here a lot anymore.
+1,447|6463|Winland

Jean_Peste_tu? wrote:

An amp should be heavy or should be heavier for an increase of wattage. 
Power supply and current reserve need to be there.
Lol, I bet this system is like all modern systems, creating energy out of nothing. I love how it reads "230V 0.60A MAX" on the rear of our "500W" system in school. That's some 380% effectivity, right there
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
.Sup
be nice
+2,646|6719|The Twilight Zone
Azur from Cambridge Audio has a very non dynamic sound, how to put it-boring sound. The quality of audio is good but if you're picky when it comes to good, quality audio try to check out Onkyo or Marantz.
https://www.shrani.si/f/3H/7h/45GTw71U/untitled-1.png
[F7F7]KiNG_KaDaFFHi
Why walk when you can dance?
+77|6853|sWEEDen

Jean_Peste_tu? wrote:

I know I'm late a bit to post in here but we're still not after Christmas.

Morpheus, I'm using a 50w RMS into 150w RMS speakers and I can tell you I can wake the 4th floor above me if I want.
No problema! (read lower for sensitivity)

Peak watts or nominal, they don't even say. RMS ftw!
Good brands though, quality will be there.  Speakers will be a bit analytic (not sensitive enough for my taste; only 90db for 1w at 1m)
You would need a higher wattage amp to get club like room filling sound. 
Don't get me wrong it will get loud but you may stay on your appetite. (Does the last part of the sentence make sense?)

Each time you want to add 3 db you need to double the power of the amp.
Let's see 2w = 93 db, 4w = 96 db, 8w = 99db, 16w = 102db, 32w = 105db, you'll get +/-106.5db max.

I made my own speakers, I'm at 102db 1w/1m.  (The speakers were bought actually but I made the enclosure)
With the same amp you would get +/-116.5db.
Go for Klipsh if you can / want, they are more dynamic usually.

Most important go out and listen to the stuff you want to buy.  Have amp and speakers switch so you can compare.
The taste for sound is different for everybody, like food.

An amp should be heavy or should be heavier for an increase of wattage. 
Power supply and current reserve need to be there. 
If the amp you choose has a system that has soft clipping of some sort like NAD amp have, it would be great. (It help protect the speakers)

At music you want the source to be prime quality (Turntables, CD reader, tape or other) then the pre-amp and the amp (if not integrated) and last the speakers.
A good source and a good amp will make lower quality speakers sounds okay but the contraire just won't work.

Good luck!
Well spoken.... I would also recomend klipsch...(rf82 ftw) and pernaps an Arcam or Marantz amp/receiver. )
Jean_Peste_tu?
Yes I Do
+44|6886|Auteuil, Laval

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Jean_Peste_tu? wrote:

An amp should be heavy or should be heavier for an increase of wattage. 
Power supply and current reserve need to be there.
Lol, I bet this system is like all modern systems, creating energy out of nothing. I love how it reads "230V 0.60A MAX" on the rear of our "500W" system in school. That's some 380% effectivity, right there
This is PMPO, explanation;  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power


From King_KaDaFFHi "I would also recomend klipsch...(rf82 ftw)"

Here's a youtube of those RF-82;    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chIdoZmpZ6w
Way over budget though compared to the missions.
Marantz are good, a friend of mine bought a used 2252B a few mths ago on eBay and he loves it.

His budget is kind of limited for hi-fi so like I said go out and listen and listen more. 
Bring your own discs you'll be comparing more effectively.
Freezer7Pro
I don't come here a lot anymore.
+1,447|6463|Winland

Jean_Peste_tu? wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

Jean_Peste_tu? wrote:

An amp should be heavy or should be heavier for an increase of wattage. 
Power supply and current reserve need to be there.
Lol, I bet this system is like all modern systems, creating energy out of nothing. I love how it reads "230V 0.60A MAX" on the rear of our "500W" system in school. That's some 380% effectivity, right there
This is PMPO, explanation;  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power


From King_KaDaFFHi "I would also recomend klipsch...(rf82 ftw)"

Here's a youtube of those RF-82;    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chIdoZmpZ6w
Way over budget though compared to the missions.
Marantz are good, a friend of mine bought a used 2252B a few mths ago on eBay and he loves it.

His budget is kind of limited for hi-fi so like I said go out and listen and listen more. 
Bring your own discs you'll be comparing more effectively.
I know more than well what PMPO is, I just find it amusing that they rate systems in the 10-watt class around those values. It's just ridiculous.
The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP
kylef
Gone
+1,352|6759|N. Ireland
Screw towers, get a rack for a proper set up with the Lian Li PC-C32!
ghettoperson
Member
+1,943|6915

I'd love the RF-82's, but no where in the UK sells them as far as I can see. Plus they're probably way over budget. Found a set of RB81's though, which look awesome and aren't too badly priced either.

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