Alright, I've got some spare dough lying around and an Athlon 64 3500+ on an AGP board that's beginning to fail outright on some of the newer games. I already have some of it in mind; modifications, suggestions, experiences with identical or similar hardware are welcome. Here goes:
Disclaimer: Post's a bit ragged. 10 minutes into refinement, I found out that I couldn't put all the notes inside the table without the entire thing getting shoved down a half a screen, and didn't feel like finishing it just to see if the final post would correct it. Instead, I threw colors on everything to make it easier to read and see my plans for various stuff. Links in orange.
Budget: ~$4000
$3175 + avg shell components ($450) = $3625
Inb4 /failprice is /fail. Why don't I build an E8400 or Q6600? Because I don't feel like it. Seems like a bit much, but there's a lot of things going on, and it's still about $1000 less than an equivalent Digital Storm/FNW build. Of course, I could always pay someone else to be anal and relax this time around, but then again...
Shell Components: ~$250-~$650
* Chassis ??? ($100-$350)
I already have a Lian Li PC-V1000B, but the last thing I want to do is strip all the old stuff out. Looking for function and structural strength (VGA supports'd be nice) over form. Not having to wear fillet gloves during assembly is a welcome bonus. HAF? CosmoS? Armorsuit? I usually keep them on top of my desk for easier access, and the less obtrusive lights I have to disable the better.
* PSU ??? ($150-$300)
Reputable name, Active PFC, SLI-Certified (might never use it, but who knows), non-modular (I have my reasons) PSUs with a rating of 800W and above; 80+ (or higher) certification and Jp-mfg solid state capacitors also a must. I had originally considered the HIPER Type M HPU-4M880 880W until I found an article revealing the occasional glitch. I'm sure it's a good PSU for the $130 range, but it's up in the air for now. Depending on the chassis, fan-placement will be considered.
# powercom SMART KING SMK-2000A 2000VA 1200 Watts max 6 Outlets UPS - Retail (Pure Sine Wave) $370, $0
Guess you could call it more of a peripheral, but I don't have a computer anywhere that doesn't have a UPS feeding it juice. Already in my garage; unpacking today to inspect condition. Damn, it's heavy.
Core Components: ~$880
* GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $300
Different brand names are pretty much going to get me the same price, here. Gigabyte's layout is pretty neat. The small PCI-e slots are above and out of the way of the three x16s. I've been stuck having to tweak around with my last two motherboards over the years (ASUS A7N8X Deluxe r2.0/A8V Deluxe), but would be willing to go with another ASUS. I've looked at DFI's site, but theirs has an odd layout for what I'm considering, and their marketing campaign always struck me as a bit nasty ('we use volteron voltinium volterrarium Star Trek Vulcan standards because we care more about hardware than anyone else,' or whatever). I'm open to eVGA and willing to give MSI another shot.
* Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80601920 - Retail $280
Only the 920? Figure for a budget of $4000, I could do better, but I have a few niches to fill, and I haven't really been convinced to pay extra for the 940.
# Aftermarket CPU Cooling ???
I've not had the time to go over the new coolers for Nehalem yet, but the default should do since I won't be overclocking anytime soon, and I heard it was sufficient to take it to 960 levels. Something like the CM V8 would probably push me towards a HAF chassis.
* GeIL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10660) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model GU36GB1333C6TC - Retail (6-6-6-24) $300
Assuming: that CAS6 (if the timings would work on the Gigabyte) is noticeably faster than CAS7 (~$100 cheaper, if I remember right) for DDR3-1333, the modules have solid engineering, and that I don't think DDR3-2000 is going to do much for an i7-920.
Notes:
* Of course, I need to do specific MB/RAM compatibility research on final choice--RAM timings-to-MB, see if they play nice, etc.
Video/Audio Components: ~$700
* PNY VCG981024GXEB-FLB GeForce 9800 GT Hybrid Power 1GB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail $140
Scanning reviews for glitches and heat issues. Plan to use as a hold-over for faster NV cards next year. I believe I should be able to graduate it down to Physics support. I would just grab a GTX260, but this PNY has a low profile, which would let me leave a PCI slot uncovered for use on something else, like a Killer NIC if I ever decided to play another laggy MMO. For now, I'd swap it out for my office's meatier dual-slot 9800GT.
* Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series 70SB088600007 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express Interface Sound Card - Retail $200
It's honestly a tossup between this and a Xonar. Initially, I liked the idea of a front plate, beings that I have about three MIDI instruments at my workstation, but it honestly doesn't have all the connections and easy-to-turn knobs that I remember in previous generations. Are they really as flush to the front panel as I'm seeing here? Wonder if I could use a Live!'s IO drive...
@ Acer P244Wbii Glossy Black 24" 2ms (GTG) HDMI 16:9 Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 20000:1 ACM - Retail $310
Nice, but no DVI Or:
@ Acer G24 Orange 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor 400 cd/m2 50000:1 (ACM) - Retail $390
I can get past the orange if the image quality is at all what they say. I've read nice things about Acer's monitors, but worse on their viewing angle. I usually look at screens dead on, but there are times when my face scoots a few feet in any direction, in which case I don't want to see inverted colors or a 70% fadeout on a screen that boasts over a 160° viewing angle. This'll be another piece of hardware that I'll have to investigate. Well, something within this price range, at any rate.
Notes:
* I love my Trinitron CRTs, but they're starting to show signs of age. Even though I'm able to repair and maintain these kinds of monitors, the truth is I prefer not to be around them when they are 'safely' discharged. Another little-known fact is that people approaching 30 suddenly start thinking about their eyes if they haven't already done so before...
* The 5.1 Altec Lansings are kinda falling apart (well, the front-right on the corner of my desk that keeps getting knocked off, at any rate), but most of the time I'm using headphones anyway. Even if it isn't very loud, I'll probably be deaf when I'm 50...but by then I'll have robot ears.
Disk Drives: ≥~$440
@ (2xRAID0) Western Digital VelociRaptor WD3000GLFS 300GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM 2x$200
This is honestly the most attractive option for me, but there's always:
@ Fujitsu MBA3300RC 300GB 15000 RPM 16MB Cache Serial Attached SCSI (SAS) Hard Drive - OEM $340
$1.13/GB is a cruel joke, but solid state for that price range is (I believe) over twice as much/GB for less than half the space. Skip on SSD.
* Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM $120, $0
Already have one in this rig, and it's being cannibalized.
# Rosewill RX-358-S SLV (Silver) 3.5" SATA to USB & eSATA Ext. Enclosure w/Int.80mm fan - Retail $40
New 300GBx2 Raptor set? Old Raptor 74GBx2 already in the machine? SAS? Any way it goes, the new chassis may or may not have decent vibration countermeasures on the 3.5 racks, and I don't want the wonderful harmonics of a 10K spinning that close to a 7.2K, so the storage can go here, which would also be convenient for tugging it back and forth without taking the whole whatever-it'll-weigh computer with me.
Optical Drives: ~$250
* LG Black 6X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 6X Blu-ray DVD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA Internal Blu-ray Burner Super Multi Blu-ray Disc Burner & HD DVD-ROM Drive Model GGW-H20L - Retail $220
Eh, might just get a reader, then upgrade to a newer (cheaper) writer when price-per-media drops.
* LG Black 22X (CAV) DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X (CAV) DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe - OEM $25
Already have two Samsungs in different machines. They've been good, but the mechanical trays stick perhaps one out of every two-hundred closures (one out of every ten if sat on their side, but that's to be expected) so figured I'd give LG's counter-offer a try.
Floppy/Card Reader: ~$35
* SAMSUNG Black 1.44MB 3.5" Internal Floppy Drive Model SFD321B/LBL1 - OEM $10 (just rounding up)
Got a few 5.25" disk drives lying around, but I'd rather convert one to USB for the lulz...
* nMEDIAPC ZE-C128 Black Aluminum Panel 5.25"All-in-one USB x 3 / IEEE 1394 / eSATA / HD (or AC97) Audio Internal Card Reader - Retail $25
Misc Software and UI Software/Devices: $300 + ~$570
* Microsoft Windows XP Pro SP3 ($0)
* Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate SP1 English NA DVD - Retail $270
Yowch.
* Futuremark 3DMark Vantage Advanced (CD-ROM) $30
* nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum Panel PRO-LCD-B Media Center Programmable LCD - Retail $40
No more an indulgent toy than anything else...
* Logitech 963416-0403 G25 Racing Wheel - Retail $270
Need for Speed.
* WACOM Cintiq 21UX 17" wide x 12.75" high Active Area USB (Data port) Tablet - Retail $2000
OK, now I'm just dreaming...maybe later.
* Yamano Hand Roll Piano - Digital & Portable 61 Keys Roll-Up Piano Electronic MIDI Keyboard with 16 MIDI Output Channels $100
Road toy to go with my laptop. Looks gimmicky, but if I find a good review, it's mine, and the giant boxes can stay at home.
* RAZER Lachesis RZ01-00170200 Phantom White 9 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Laser 4000 dpi Gaming Mouse - Retail $80
I'm left-handed and have been using a symmetrical Intellimouse for some time, and it's worked so far, but I'd be interested to see if higher DPI really does make a difference. Comments?
* Keyboard: Something to this effect, but with more solid engineering.
I like the IBM KB-3923, but the spacebar's getting a bit woggly. I have a couple replacements in mind, but here's something funny I found while looking at motherboards:
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Key … uctID=2789
There's two kinds of pictures on this page, one with the fat enter button, and one with the slim. I wonder if they've made up their minds which one the GK-K8000 is, or it it's still up in the air?
Disclaimer: Post's a bit ragged. 10 minutes into refinement, I found out that I couldn't put all the notes inside the table without the entire thing getting shoved down a half a screen, and didn't feel like finishing it just to see if the final post would correct it. Instead, I threw colors on everything to make it easier to read and see my plans for various stuff. Links in orange.
Budget: ~$4000
$3175 + avg shell components ($450) = $3625
Inb4 /failprice is /fail. Why don't I build an E8400 or Q6600? Because I don't feel like it. Seems like a bit much, but there's a lot of things going on, and it's still about $1000 less than an equivalent Digital Storm/FNW build. Of course, I could always pay someone else to be anal and relax this time around, but then again...
Shell Components: ~$250-~$650
* Chassis ??? ($100-$350)
I already have a Lian Li PC-V1000B, but the last thing I want to do is strip all the old stuff out. Looking for function and structural strength (VGA supports'd be nice) over form. Not having to wear fillet gloves during assembly is a welcome bonus. HAF? CosmoS? Armorsuit? I usually keep them on top of my desk for easier access, and the less obtrusive lights I have to disable the better.
* PSU ??? ($150-$300)
Reputable name, Active PFC, SLI-Certified (might never use it, but who knows), non-modular (I have my reasons) PSUs with a rating of 800W and above; 80+ (or higher) certification and Jp-mfg solid state capacitors also a must. I had originally considered the HIPER Type M HPU-4M880 880W until I found an article revealing the occasional glitch. I'm sure it's a good PSU for the $130 range, but it's up in the air for now. Depending on the chassis, fan-placement will be considered.
# powercom SMART KING SMK-2000A 2000VA 1200 Watts max 6 Outlets UPS - Retail (Pure Sine Wave) $370, $0
Guess you could call it more of a peripheral, but I don't have a computer anywhere that doesn't have a UPS feeding it juice. Already in my garage; unpacking today to inspect condition. Damn, it's heavy.
Core Components: ~$880
* GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD5 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $300
Different brand names are pretty much going to get me the same price, here. Gigabyte's layout is pretty neat. The small PCI-e slots are above and out of the way of the three x16s. I've been stuck having to tweak around with my last two motherboards over the years (ASUS A7N8X Deluxe r2.0/A8V Deluxe), but would be willing to go with another ASUS. I've looked at DFI's site, but theirs has an odd layout for what I'm considering, and their marketing campaign always struck me as a bit nasty ('we use volteron voltinium volterrarium Star Trek Vulcan standards because we care more about hardware than anyone else,' or whatever). I'm open to eVGA and willing to give MSI another shot.
* Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80601920 - Retail $280
Only the 920? Figure for a budget of $4000, I could do better, but I have a few niches to fill, and I haven't really been convinced to pay extra for the 940.
# Aftermarket CPU Cooling ???
I've not had the time to go over the new coolers for Nehalem yet, but the default should do since I won't be overclocking anytime soon, and I heard it was sufficient to take it to 960 levels. Something like the CM V8 would probably push me towards a HAF chassis.
* GeIL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10660) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model GU36GB1333C6TC - Retail (6-6-6-24) $300
Assuming: that CAS6 (if the timings would work on the Gigabyte) is noticeably faster than CAS7 (~$100 cheaper, if I remember right) for DDR3-1333, the modules have solid engineering, and that I don't think DDR3-2000 is going to do much for an i7-920.
Notes:
* Of course, I need to do specific MB/RAM compatibility research on final choice--RAM timings-to-MB, see if they play nice, etc.
Video/Audio Components: ~$700
* PNY VCG981024GXEB-FLB GeForce 9800 GT Hybrid Power 1GB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail $140
Scanning reviews for glitches and heat issues. Plan to use as a hold-over for faster NV cards next year. I believe I should be able to graduate it down to Physics support. I would just grab a GTX260, but this PNY has a low profile, which would let me leave a PCI slot uncovered for use on something else, like a Killer NIC if I ever decided to play another laggy MMO. For now, I'd swap it out for my office's meatier dual-slot 9800GT.
* Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series 70SB088600007 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Express Interface Sound Card - Retail $200
It's honestly a tossup between this and a Xonar. Initially, I liked the idea of a front plate, beings that I have about three MIDI instruments at my workstation, but it honestly doesn't have all the connections and easy-to-turn knobs that I remember in previous generations. Are they really as flush to the front panel as I'm seeing here? Wonder if I could use a Live!'s IO drive...
@ Acer P244Wbii Glossy Black 24" 2ms (GTG) HDMI 16:9 Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 20000:1 ACM - Retail $310
Nice, but no DVI Or:
@ Acer G24 Orange 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor 400 cd/m2 50000:1 (ACM) - Retail $390
I can get past the orange if the image quality is at all what they say. I've read nice things about Acer's monitors, but worse on their viewing angle. I usually look at screens dead on, but there are times when my face scoots a few feet in any direction, in which case I don't want to see inverted colors or a 70% fadeout on a screen that boasts over a 160° viewing angle. This'll be another piece of hardware that I'll have to investigate. Well, something within this price range, at any rate.
Notes:
* I love my Trinitron CRTs, but they're starting to show signs of age. Even though I'm able to repair and maintain these kinds of monitors, the truth is I prefer not to be around them when they are 'safely' discharged. Another little-known fact is that people approaching 30 suddenly start thinking about their eyes if they haven't already done so before...
* The 5.1 Altec Lansings are kinda falling apart (well, the front-right on the corner of my desk that keeps getting knocked off, at any rate), but most of the time I'm using headphones anyway. Even if it isn't very loud, I'll probably be deaf when I'm 50...but by then I'll have robot ears.
Disk Drives: ≥~$440
@ (2xRAID0) Western Digital VelociRaptor WD3000GLFS 300GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM 2x$200
This is honestly the most attractive option for me, but there's always:
@ Fujitsu MBA3300RC 300GB 15000 RPM 16MB Cache Serial Attached SCSI (SAS) Hard Drive - OEM $340
$1.13/GB is a cruel joke, but solid state for that price range is (I believe) over twice as much/GB for less than half the space. Skip on SSD.
* Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM $120, $0
Already have one in this rig, and it's being cannibalized.
# Rosewill RX-358-S SLV (Silver) 3.5" SATA to USB & eSATA Ext. Enclosure w/Int.80mm fan - Retail $40
New 300GBx2 Raptor set? Old Raptor 74GBx2 already in the machine? SAS? Any way it goes, the new chassis may or may not have decent vibration countermeasures on the 3.5 racks, and I don't want the wonderful harmonics of a 10K spinning that close to a 7.2K, so the storage can go here, which would also be convenient for tugging it back and forth without taking the whole whatever-it'll-weigh computer with me.
Optical Drives: ~$250
* LG Black 6X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 6X Blu-ray DVD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA Internal Blu-ray Burner Super Multi Blu-ray Disc Burner & HD DVD-ROM Drive Model GGW-H20L - Retail $220
Eh, might just get a reader, then upgrade to a newer (cheaper) writer when price-per-media drops.
* LG Black 22X (CAV) DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X (CAV) DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 22X DVD±R DVD Burner with LightScribe - OEM $25
Already have two Samsungs in different machines. They've been good, but the mechanical trays stick perhaps one out of every two-hundred closures (one out of every ten if sat on their side, but that's to be expected) so figured I'd give LG's counter-offer a try.
Floppy/Card Reader: ~$35
* SAMSUNG Black 1.44MB 3.5" Internal Floppy Drive Model SFD321B/LBL1 - OEM $10 (just rounding up)
Got a few 5.25" disk drives lying around, but I'd rather convert one to USB for the lulz...
* nMEDIAPC ZE-C128 Black Aluminum Panel 5.25"All-in-one USB x 3 / IEEE 1394 / eSATA / HD (or AC97) Audio Internal Card Reader - Retail $25
Misc Software and UI Software/Devices: $300 + ~$570
* Microsoft Windows XP Pro SP3 ($0)
* Microsoft Windows Vista Ultimate SP1 English NA DVD - Retail $270
Yowch.
* Futuremark 3DMark Vantage Advanced (CD-ROM) $30
* nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum Panel PRO-LCD-B Media Center Programmable LCD - Retail $40
No more an indulgent toy than anything else...
* Logitech 963416-0403 G25 Racing Wheel - Retail $270
Need for Speed.
* WACOM Cintiq 21UX 17" wide x 12.75" high Active Area USB (Data port) Tablet - Retail $2000
OK, now I'm just dreaming...maybe later.
* Yamano Hand Roll Piano - Digital & Portable 61 Keys Roll-Up Piano Electronic MIDI Keyboard with 16 MIDI Output Channels $100
Road toy to go with my laptop. Looks gimmicky, but if I find a good review, it's mine, and the giant boxes can stay at home.
* RAZER Lachesis RZ01-00170200 Phantom White 9 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Laser 4000 dpi Gaming Mouse - Retail $80
I'm left-handed and have been using a symmetrical Intellimouse for some time, and it's worked so far, but I'd be interested to see if higher DPI really does make a difference. Comments?
* Keyboard: Something to this effect, but with more solid engineering.
I like the IBM KB-3923, but the spacebar's getting a bit woggly. I have a couple replacements in mind, but here's something funny I found while looking at motherboards:
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Products/Key … uctID=2789
There's two kinds of pictures on this page, one with the fat enter button, and one with the slim. I wonder if they've made up their minds which one the GK-K8000 is, or it it's still up in the air?
