What kind of soldering materials would it take?

2011-03-07 18:17:18

#1

_j5689_: Dreads & Bergers; +364|6974|Riva, MD

I mean what wattage of soldering iron and what type of material of solder would I need for the alternator wires on a car?

I'm going to put a Police Interceptor alternator in my Crown Vic:

http://www.p71interceptor.com/alternator/convert4g6g/

And it requires you to cut off the old connector and solder on the new connector's wires and I figured I might as well finally learn how to solder, good fine motor skills or not.

Last edited by _j5689_ (2011-03-07 18:17:28)

2011-03-07 18:18:31

#2

jsnipy: ...; +3,277|6779|...

not sure if i'd use 50/50 on it. Maybe the silver kind used for high pressure refrigeration line (90/10 i think).

If you are adding a connector it happen by clamping rather than soldering.

2011-03-07 18:58:07

#3

_j5689_: Dreads & Bergers; +364|6974|Riva, MD

jsnipy wrote:
not sure if i'd use 50/50 on it. Maybe the silver kind used for high pressure refrigeration line (90/10 i think).

If you are adding a connector it happen by clamping rather than soldering.

You mean crimping?

The guys on the Crown Vic forums said that I should solder it since the crimp comes apart from engine vibration over time.

2011-03-07 19:12:21

#4

jsnipy: ...; +3,277|6779|...

_j5689_ wrote:
jsnipy wrote:
not sure if i'd use 50/50 on it. Maybe the silver kind used for high pressure refrigeration line (90/10 i think).

If you are adding a connector it happen by clamping rather than soldering.
You mean crimping?

The guys on the Crown Vic forums said that I should solder it since the crimp comes apart from engine vibration over time.

I guess it would, I'd worry about heat with soldering it.

2011-03-07 19:19:45

#5

_j5689_: Dreads & Bergers; +364|6974|Riva, MD

jsnipy wrote:
_j5689_ wrote:
jsnipy wrote:
not sure if i'd use 50/50 on it. Maybe the silver kind used for high pressure refrigeration line (90/10 i think).

If you are adding a connector it happen by clamping rather than soldering.
You mean crimping?

The guys on the Crown Vic forums said that I should solder it since the crimp comes apart from engine vibration over time.
I guess it would, I'd worry about heat with soldering it.

Well if I use the right stuff with a high melting point, cover it with electric tape and then re-cover all of it with that heat-shield tubing that's already there, I should probably be good.

I mean the guy who made that guide must've done it some way, lol.

2011-03-08 13:30:13

#6

baggs: Member; +732|6461

You're advised to do both, crimp and solder and then heatshrink over the connection. I recommend you use a heatshrink that is lined with glue and then fully grease the terminal. One of your main issues is to stop water ingressing up the cable and rotting it.

2011-03-08 13:43:59

#7

ghettoperson: Member; +1,943|6906

Out of interest, what's the benefit to changing it?

2011-03-08 13:50:42

#8

baggs: Member; +732|6461

ghettoperson wrote:
Out of interest, what's the benefit to changing it?

Usually people add larger and more effecient alternators to provide more power when they have exceeded the output of the stock alternator.

Big car audio systems for instance, radio gear, generators and the like...

Sometimes tho, manufacturers instally really, really shit alternators.

2011-03-09 01:26:06

#9

Dilbert_X: The X stands for; +1,815|6363|eXtreme to the maX

That kind of thing would be crimped, never soldered.

Otherwise what gauge of wire are you talking about?

Fuck Israel

2011-03-09 12:22:22

#10

_j5689_: Dreads & Bergers; +364|6974|Riva, MD

I remember reading 10AWG somewhere, but I don't know for sure

2011-03-09 14:40:55

#11

baggs: Member; +732|6461

_j5689_ wrote:
I remember reading 10AWG somewhere, but I don't know for sure

Thats not a very heavy guage cable, like 5mm2, are you sure thats a correct guage considering it's for an alternator?

2011-03-10 06:52:53

#12

Freezer7Pro: I don't come here a lot anymore.; +1,447|6454|Winland

baggs wrote:
_j5689_ wrote:
I remember reading 10AWG somewhere, but I don't know for sure
Thats not a very heavy guage cable, like 5mm2, are you sure thats a correct guage considering it's for an alternator?

I don't think it's the power cable; it looks more like some sort of control connector.

The idea of any hi-fi system is to reproduce the source material as faithfully as possible, and to deliberately add distortion to everything you hear (due to amplifier deficiencies) because it sounds 'nice' is simply not high fidelity. If that is what you want to hear then there is no problem with that, but by adding so much additional material (by way of harmonics and intermodulation) you have a tailored sound system, not a hi-fi. - Rod Elliot, ESP

2011-03-10 08:39:16

#13

baggs: Member; +732|6461

Freezer7Pro wrote:
baggs wrote:
_j5689_ wrote:
I remember reading 10AWG somewhere, but I don't know for sure
Thats not a very heavy guage cable, like 5mm2, are you sure thats a correct guage considering it's for an alternator?
I don't think it's the power cable; it looks more like some sort of control connector.

Yeah i thought he was talking about the actual battery feed cable, connecting up the little three way plug seemed a bit obvious as to ask.

My bad!

But yeah, the three smaller wires can be either crimped or soldered. Use the type of insulated crimps you heat up after crimping which shrink and glue the connection and if possible, try and use a set of calibrated crimpers. You can also solder and heatshrink over and then insulate with tape and heat resistant braiding. Your personal preference really.

FWIW; the crimp connectors with the glue heat shrink are what we used to use if doing a warranty repair to wiring in vehicles.

2011-03-12 16:36:06

#14

heggs: Spamalamadingdong; +581|6645|New York

Well, are you RoHS compliant? I guess it also depends on that. Lead free solder is harder to work with than solder with lead, just something to keep in mind.

Remember Me As A Time Of Day

2011-03-13 16:06:07

#15

Dilbert_X: The X stands for; +1,815|6363|eXtreme to the maX

heggs wrote:
Well, are you RoHS compliant? I guess it also depends on that. Lead free solder is harder to work with than solder with lead, just something to keep in mind.

LOL

But really, off the top of my head a 100W soldering iron would be a starting point for that kind of wire, but it should be crimped instead of soldered.

Last edited by Dilbert_X (2011-03-13 16:11:50)

Fuck Israel

2011-03-13 16:31:47

#16

_j5689_: Dreads & Bergers; +364|6974|Riva, MD

baggs wrote:
Freezer7Pro wrote:
baggs wrote:

Thats not a very heavy guage cable, like 5mm2, are you sure thats a correct guage considering it's for an alternator?
I don't think it's the power cable; it looks more like some sort of control connector.
Yeah i thought he was talking about the actual battery feed cable, connecting up the little three way plug seemed a bit obvious as to ask.

My bad!

But yeah, the three smaller wires can be either crimped or soldered. Use the type of insulated crimps you heat up after crimping which shrink and glue the connection and if possible, try and use a set of calibrated crimpers. You can also solder and heatshrink over and then insulate with tape and heat resistant braiding. Your personal preference really.

FWIW; the crimp connectors with the glue heat shrink are what we used to use if doing a warranty repair to wiring in vehicles.

Yeah I was talking about the little three-wire plug that goes into the alternator, not the battery hookup

So I'm guessing the crimp held up well in the vehicles you used it in?

And what do you use to heat them up with?

And where can I get some that would fit those wires?

BF2S Forums What kind of soldering materials would it take?

jsnipy wrote:

_j5689_ wrote:

jsnipy wrote:

jsnipy wrote:

_j5689_ wrote:

jsnipy wrote:

ghettoperson wrote:

_j5689_ wrote:

baggs wrote:

_j5689_ wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

baggs wrote:

_j5689_ wrote:

heggs wrote:

baggs wrote:

Freezer7Pro wrote:

baggs wrote:

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